Namibia - Damaraland & Kaokoland

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Liz & John in Africa - August 2004 » Namibia - Damaraland & Kaokoland

Nambia was our primary destination. We rented a 4x4 truck and drove ourselves around for 2 weeks in some of the most remote environments either of us have ever been in. Damaraland and Kaokoland, in the remote northwest, are where the Damara and Himba people live. Our main goal was to visit these people...we were not disappointed.

IMG_2695 In the central region of Namibia, older Herero women wear a traditional dress heavily influenced by the Victorian settlers, including

IMG_2712 The 'paper tree', as named by Liz. These grow right out of the rocks - apparently without soil. The bark flakes off in sheets of wallpaper that the Damara make into a medicinal tea.

IMG_2721 This is a good main road for Namibia, a country with theoretically one of the most comprehensive road networks in Africa ...but also some of the worst maps. The same dashed-line symbol could represent a fast, easy road like this or a narrow, barely-there 4x4 track of deep sand or sharp rocks that could easily be your last. Every day, a new surprise!

IMG_2733 We had a great (and long) day driving across the deserts and mountains of Damaraland only to arrive at this amazing campsite. Being able to drive down into a riverbed like this was one of the many rewards of having the 4x4.

P8130196 For relaxing times, make it Suntory time...

IMG_2798 Against the tide of change, and with few resources at her disposal, Monica is trying to preserve Damara customs and heritage through this educational village of huts, tools and clothing using long-lost skills and rituals.

P8130209 The hardest thing about this stone game, played by bushmen for centuries, is actually the pronunication as all the numbers use the tongue-twisting clicks, tocks, pops and sucking noises that pepper the Damara language. We tried but failed miserably.

P8130201 Here she demonstrates a healing dance once used by her father, the tribe's medicine man. Later we visited Monica's home village and family, who were worried about the seriously ailing old man, and ended up taking the medicine man to the local clinic!

P8130223 On the road to Purros. 60 miles in 4 hours...this was the good part of the road.

IMG_2868 On the outskirts of Himba territory, in the far northwest, we came across this

IMG_2875 Himba women cover their bodies in a sun-blocking paste made from red ochre, sweet smelling herbs, and butterfat. The paste also helps hold together the braids in their hair.

IMG_2855 Each piece of jewelery and clothing has significance for life-stage and status. This 'crown' hairstyle indicates that she is married.

IMG_2844 Water is scarce. The Himba cleanse by burning special herbs and wafting the incense-like smoke over themselves and their clothing.

IMG_2884 Liz hands out pieces of apple to the children of the village.

P8140239 Our campsite outside of Purros, in the middle of a desert...a campsite with a shower, a sink and flush toilet...and LOTS of elephant dung, in a path right across our tent site - uhh, please don't come through tonight! This is one of the few remaining areas in Africa with free-ranging elephants.

IMG_2962 Conversing with the Himba proved challenging at first, not least because the dialect changes every 15 miles. But two days later we found a translator and achieved our goal of finding and visiting a real Himba community. After presenting gifts of flour, sugar, matches and other staples to the village chief, we were invited into the village.

IMG_2959 It was such an amazing sight when the whole village came out to greet us

IMG_2945 Liz really enjoyed talking to these two women, who seemed a strong presence in village life

IMG_2948 The chief

IMG_2971 The two forward plaits/braids indicate that these girls are unmarried. The girl in front here also wore a special ornate belt indicating that she had recently 'come into womanhood' (no secrets here, apparently!) but that, thankfully, the chief does not yet consider her old enough for marriage.

IMG_2965 HP John took the opportunity to make a sales call but the Himba chief didn't buy a single switch or router!

P8160283 After 200 miles of desert... Epupa Falls. The name originated from the local Herero language meaning 'Falling Waters'. And, if you really think about it, that makes sense (you see, because the water is, in fact, falling). That's Angola off in the distance.

P8160269 As falls Epupa, so falls Epupa Falls. In the foreground, John blocks the view.

P8160305 Our campsite, about 75 yards from the previous photo. Location, location...

P8160002 Our neighboring campsite FILLED with Italians, John waits for the first precious cup of espresso to flow. Did he offer any to the Italians? Did THEY offer any of their fancy pasta the night before...when the can opener wouldn't work and the fire wouldn't start and...

P8170020 We promised our parents we wouldn't be anywhere near Angola. So, here we are, in Angola. Because it was there and we had a boat. How could we not, really? PS: Don't tell the Angolans

P8170025 At the end of a day of good old-fashion insurgency, a beer tastes mighty good at the Kunene River Lodge. After many days of desert camping, this place was paradise (hot showers, cold beer, tire repair and laundry services...that's all we ask).